Current issues of safety and efficacy of cosmetic products for skin with hyperpigmentation (literature review)

  • Authors: G.V. Golovaschenko, A.V. Basanets
  • UDC: 616.5-003.829, 615.072
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L.I. Medved’s Research Center of Preventive Toxicology, Food and Chemical Safety, Ministry of Health, Ukraine (State Enterprise), Kyiv, Ukraine

 

RESUME. Hyperpigmentation is a common dermatological condition characterized by diffuse or focal accumulation of melanin pigment in the skin. Skin-lightening agents are used to correct dermatological conditions associated with hyperpigmentation. Studying the safety and effectiveness of products aimed at correcting skin pigmentation processes is a relevant area in modern dermatology.

Aim. To analyze the causes of hyperpigmentation and review skin-lightening agents; to identify potential adverse effects of using skinlightening products and to assess the presence of hazardous cosmetic products for pigmented skin on the Ukrainian market based on publicly available data.

Materials and Methods. A review of prospective study articles was conducted using databases such as PubMed, MEDLINE, EMBASE, and Cochrane. Data from open sources about the Ukrainian cosmetic market were also examined.

Results and discussion. Based on the literature review, the primary causes of pigmentation disorders were identified, with melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation being the most prominent. The main treatment agents currently used are products containing hydroquinone. The study also summarizes indications for prescribing skin-lightening products in dermatological practice and evaluates topical treatments for hyperpigmentation.

Conclusions. The primary agents for treating skin hyperpigmentation are tyrosinase enzyme inhibitors. There are reported cases of both local and systemic side effects from hydroquinone use. The need to improve regulatory frameworks governing the sale of cosmetic products is becoming increasingly urgent. Alternative treatments for skin hyperpigmentation, including niacinamide, ascorbic acid derivatives, retinoids, and azelaic acid, have shown positive results and high safety profiles.

 

Keywords: skin hyperpigmentation, melasma, tyrosinase inhibitors, hydroquinone.

 

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Стаття надійшла до редакції 15 січня 2025 р.

The article was received by the editorial office on January 15, 2025.